Lunch at the University of Wisconsin Arlington Research Station on October 28 was a chance to compare grass-fed dairy with conventional dairy in the same meal. Lake Michigan Whitefish with butter sauce, grazed and conventional cheeses, bread and butter, and two cupcakes with buttercream frosting. These are the kind of meals we eat in the name of science.
The occasion was the second year meeting of a three year ongoing study of grass-fed dairy at University of Wisconsin. This luncheon was the check in at the end of the second year to announce findings, allow guests to taste the differences between grass-fed and conventional dairy products, and spread the word about the growing body of research on grass-fed.
Not only did we get to eat a delicious lunch and get some vivid illustrations of the flavor and sensory differences that grass-fed dairy can bring to a meal, we got to talk with researchers, farmers, journalists and educators about the differences in grass-fed dairy. One more year of research and we’ll have lunch again next year to present findings, and of course, to create as many opportunities to eat as much buttercream frosting as possible in one meal.
ARLINGTON — For advocates of cows grazing on grass rather than eating silage, the benefits to the environment, farmers and cows are clear.
But the million dollar question is, how does the milk these cows produce taste? Will people want to buy and cook with grass-fed dairy products?
In late October, a group was invited to UW-Madison’s Arlington Research Station for a “Grass-fed Dairy Tasting,” as part of a three-year project aimed at working with farmers, dairy processors and chefs to build a market for grass-fed milk.
The tasting group (composed of farmers, food processors, academics, journalists, business consultants, a veterinarian and others) was asked to make side-by-side comparisons of conventional dairy products versus grass-fed dairy products. Both were used in several ways: sliced cheeses, butter on baguettes, salad dressings, croissants, in a sauce for fish and cupcake frosting. The tasters were asked to rate the items on both plates, and comment on the differences.
There was plenty to comment about. Tasters noticed big differences in flavors, textures and colors. The flavors of the grass-fed dairy products were described as more intense and complex. The grass-fed butter spread more easily, and was a much deeper yellow.
Then the two chefs who prepared the foods for the tasting weighed in. Leah Caplan, of Field to Fork Culinary Consulting, said grass-fed butter she used on fish brought out the garlic and sage in the fish she’d prepared, and said the slight onion aroma enhanced soups she has made. “Grass-fed butter is much easier to use because it’s much more malleable. It’s a convenience product and its functionality is remarkable.”
Jack Kaestner, of the Oconomowoc Lake Club, said he uses grass-fed dairy products whenever possible, and that his patrons have developed an appreciation for them and the concept of “cheese terroir.” “Grass-fed butter is more expensive, but you need to use less of it,” he said. “In Europe, they’re way ahead of us in this; they’ve been doing this for centuries.”
Scott Rankin, who teaches at the UW-Madison Food Science Department, and has been conducting tasting panels on the topic, said grass-fed dairy products are not suited for everyone, or for all products. Tasters in Rankin’s classes slightly preferred conventional milk to grass-fed milk. “Good pasteurized milk should have very little flavor,” he said, adding that he can immediately detect grass-fed milk. “I think you’d have a hard time getting this milk into the schools.”
But in certain cheeses or yogurts, where pungency is expected and valued, grass-fed dairy products could be highly desirable. “We have to figure out who the right customer is; the right customer will say “wow” when they taste it,” said Laura Paine, a grazing and organic agriculture specialist with the Wisconsin Department of Agriculture, Trade and Consumer Protection. “We want to get grass-fed niche products into stores and restaurants. I see this as a way for small dairy farms to be profitable. Look what’s happened to organics in the last 10 years. It’s about familiarization and education.”
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Posted in Dining on Friday, November 12, 2010 6:30 am Updated: 8:15 am. Grass-fed Dairy, Arlington Research Station, Grass-fed Dairy Tasting, Leah Caplan, Field To Fork Culinary Consulting, Jack Kaestner, Oconomowoc Lake Club, Scott Rankin, Uw-madison Food Science Department, Laura Paine, Department Of Agriculture, Trade And Consumer Protection
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